Day 14, Thursday, Aug. 29, Ashfield House, Danby Wiske

Hiked 14 miles, 132 miles down, 60 to go.

It was a long hiking day with too much of it on the road or bike paths. We started out in fine shape and took a wrong turn. When over 70 young British soldiers ran past us on the walking path on the way back to their garrison we realized we had taken the wrong path. We looked at our maps and discovered we could meet the Coast 2 Coast trail farther up the way. The bike path was lovely but the longer I walk on a hard surface the more my feet begin to hurt. After 6 miles we hit the Coast 2 Coast trail and were back in fields and climbing stiles. The rock walls seemed to have vanished from this part of the trail. There was one brief shower today when we we stopped at St. Mary's Church in the small village of Bolton-on-Swale.

There were signs welcoming Coast 2 Coast hikers and in the back of the church there was a table of cold drinks one could take. It was a very nice addition to our hike today,

The trail joined a little used tarmac road for several miles. Wainwright, who envisioned this trail, said this part was his least favorite. It goes through the farming area of the UK and is quite flat. I find it interesting that much of the trail goes right through farmers' pastures. I can't image folks just hiking through farms in Iowa and the owners thinking that is OK.

Back to the idea as to why I do this hike ... The very gregarious proprietor of the B&B where we stayed in Richmond asked us today why we didn't go on a proper holiday and see the sights or go the the beach. It's a fair question. As we've hiked we've discovered that many Brits are avid walkers. There are public foot paths in many locations. So who have we met on trail and what are some of the reasons they are doing the Coast 2 Coast? - A British man who is his mid 50s and lives on the Isle of Man was doing it because he and his wife had divorced several years ago and it seemed to be part of his healing to do this walk; a British mother and daughter who will finish her final year of secondary school were doing it to have time together prior to college; Mark, from the Netherlands, was doing it because the Netherlands is so flat and he was loving the changing geology he experiences each day; Stewart, a Brit who is about 40 was just divorced and he wanted to do something totally different than the usual beach vacations he took with his former wife; Paul, a Brit, wanted to celebrate his 50th birthday by doing the walk. He had hoped to do it with several friends but they all backed out so he decided to do it alone. Early in our hike we met 3 American men in their late 60s and early 70s and they were doing it for "bragging rights." (On one side of the trail were cattle; on the other side were sheep!)

Since Kathy and I booked early we have had B&Bs along the trail. We walk to our B&B each day and then walk out of it the next morning. There is one night when the nearest B&B is 2 and a half miles from the trail so we plan to call them to pick us up by the trail that day and take us back to the trail the next morning, I share this because we've met different hikers and hiking groups who have walked and then had a taxi or van take them back to the town where they have already been. I told Kathy that riding back in a car to where you started to spend the might would seem discouraging to me. Today we met a group of 4 hikers who had started in Richmond, hiked 14 miles to Danby Wiske, and were heading back to Richmond to spend the night.

We often need to call ahead to the B&B where we are staying to confirm an evening meal. When we called to confirm for tonight we learned that we are the only 2 guests in the village of Danby Wiske tonight. That makes us feel very special. - Nancy